1988 - Troplong Mondot, Saint-Emilion

Tawny brick around the edging, heading to pale rose. Gentle melted tannins, dried roses and smoked earth, this is very much in its tertiary phase, beautiful classicism, has a sense of life, but at this point is a gentle old school St Emilion, with touches of salted cracker and saffron as it opens, and waves of welcoming campfire smoke. The quality of the terroir comes through on the finish, with a gentle lick of freshness bouyed up by the limestone soils. This has heart, and is a lovely wine. Claude Valette was owner at the time, with his daughter Christine running things, and Jean-Pierre Taleyson cellar master. Michel Rolland already consultant, as he would remain until 2017. 50% new oak.

The 1988 Troplong Mondot has a deep garnet-brick color. It erupts from the glass with powerful notes of star anise, sandalwood, Chinese five spice, and cigar box, leading to a core of prunes, dried figs, and dusty soil. The medium-bodied palate delivers satiny tannins and fantastic freshness to support the exotic spices layers, finishing long and fragrant.

The 1988 Troplong Mondot is a vintage that I have tasted for many many years i.e never. It has quite a deep colour. It has a very pleasant bouquet, maybe a little gentle after 30 years, brambly blackberry and bilberry fruit, quite precise, hints of black truffle developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannin, almost Left Bank in terms of structure with a fresh, graphite tinged finish. It might lack finesse and length but there is something just very “honest” about this 1988 Saint-Émilion. Tasted at the château.